Dryer Making Loud Noise
Thumping, squealing or grinding from a dryer points to worn rollers, a pulley, the belt or a bearing.
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A dryer making a loud noise is telling you which part is wearing, if you note when the sound starts and what it sounds like. A rhythmic thump, a high squeal, a scrape and a rattle each lead to different parts.
Inside the cabinet, the drum rides on rollers or glides and is turned by a belt that wraps around the motor pulley and an idler pulley, while a blower wheel pulls air through. Coins, buttons and other loose items make noise too, and the checks below rule those out before anything is taken apart.
Dryer Making Loud Noise: common causes
- Drum support rollers worn — The drum rests on small wheels that flatten or seize with wear, and a worn one makes a rhythmic thump or rumble as the drum turns.
- Idler pulley failing — The idler keeps tension on the belt. When its bearing wears, it squeals or chirps from the moment the motor starts.
- Drive belt frayed or flat-spotted — A belt that has stretched, cracked or developed a flat spot slaps, thumps or squeaks, and once it snaps the drum stops turning.
- Front glides or felt seals worn — Plastic glides and felt strips keep the drum's metal edge off the cabinet. When they wear through, the drum scrapes and can mark or snag clothes.
- Rear bearing or motor bearings worn — Dryers built with a rear drum shaft squeal or grind from the back as that bearing wears, and a motor with worn bearings hums loudly or grinds.
- Loose item in the drum or blower — Coins, keys, buttons or a hair clip can rattle in the drum, and anything that slips past the lint screen can knock inside the blower housing.
Signs to look for
- A thump in time with the drum — A roller worn flat, or a heavy item such as shoes tumbling in the load.
- A high squeal as the dryer starts — The idler pulley, the belt or a roller that no longer spins freely.
- Scraping or metal grinding — Worn glides or seals at the front of the drum, or a worn rear bearing.
- Rattling or clicking that changes with the load — A loose item in the drum, a zipper or buckle, or something caught in the blower.
- A loud hum while the drum barely turns or stays still — A seized roller, idler or motor bearing, or something jammed in the blower wheel, the same signs as a dryer that won't start. Stop and unplug it.
Checks you can do safely before you call
- Empty the drum and check pockets. With the dryer unplugged, take the load out and feel along the drum's fins and the gap at its front edge for coins, keys or clips.
- Look into the lint screen slot. Keep it unplugged, pull the screen and shine a flashlight down the opening. Lift out what you can reach with your fingers or a vacuum hose, and don't push anything deeper, because it can fall through to the blower.
- Turn the drum by hand. Still unplugged, rotate the empty drum slowly. A drum that feels stiff, lumpy or scrapes points to a roller, glide or bearing. One that spins freely with no drag at all may have a broken belt.
- Level it and give it room. Make sure all four feet sit firmly on the floor and the cabinet doesn't touch the wall or the washer next to it. If a foot needs adjusting, have a second person tilt the dryer back slightly rather than lifting it alone. If it's a gas model, slide it only a short distance so the gas connector stays relaxed.
- Listen to an empty run. Skip this if the drum felt stiff or scraped in step 3. Otherwise plug it back in and run it empty on a no-heat setting for a minute or two. If the noise is gone, look at the load next, since shoes, zippers and buckles bang on their own. Worn rollers can also be quieter with the drum empty, so call if the noise comes back with a normal load. If it's still there, stop and unplug the dryer again.
When to call a technician
- The drum feels stiff, lumpy or scrapes when you turn it by hand.
- A squeal or grind starts as soon as the motor runs, with nothing in the drum.
- Thumping continues with an empty drum on a level floor.
- You smell hot rubber while it runs; stop it and unplug it first.
- The motor hums but the drum stops turning; see dryer won't start.
What happens at the diagnostic visit
To pin down the noise, the technician runs the dryer and listens, then opens the cabinet to check the drum rollers and their shafts, the idler pulley, the belt, the front glides and seals, the rear bearing on dryers that have one, the blower wheel and the motor. You see which part is worn before you decide.
The diagnostic visit is $89 for a standard residential appliance and $129 for a built-in unit or commercial equipment; a premium brand on its own doesn't make an appliance built-in. The price comes before any repair work. For the gas and electric dryers we work on, visit our dryer repair service page.
Brand and model notes
- GE: on GE dryers with front drum slides, the plastic slides wear thin and the drum starts scraping against the front panel, which sounds like a squeal or metal on metal. See GE.
- Frigidaire and Electrolux: worn front drum glides on these dryers squeak or scrape. The rear drum support, which is rollers or a rear bearing depending on the model, and the idler get checked at the same time. See Frigidaire and Electrolux.
- Whirlpool, Maytag and Amana: on current Whirlpool-built models, a thump points first to the drum support rollers and a squeal to the idler pulley or a roller. Rollers, idler and belt are checked together while the cabinet is open. See Whirlpool, Maytag and Amana.
Book a diagnostic visit
$89 standard residential · $129 built-in or commercial. We identify the issue, explain your options and give you an upfront quote before any repair work begins.
21 Google reviews · Same-day appointments may be available · Licensed & insured · Upfront pricing — no hidden fees
Dryer Making Loud Noise: questions and answers
Should I stop using a dryer that's making noise?
A rattle from a coin is harmless once you remove it, but a squeal, scrape or grind means a part is wearing. Running it can damage the drum, snap the belt or overheat the motor, so stop using it, unplug it and do the checks on this page before the next load.
Why does my dryer thump as the drum turns?
A thump that keeps time with the drum points to a support roller that has worn flat or seized. A belt with a flat spot, or a torn seal catching as the drum turns, can thump as well. A heavy item in the load, such as shoes, sounds the same, so listen with the drum empty first.
What makes a dryer squeal or squeak when it starts?
A squeal right at startup points to the idler pulley, whose bearing dries out and wears, or to a glazed belt. A worn drum roller can squeal too. The sound may fade as the parts warm up, but the wear continues and the part can seize.
Can a broken belt make a loud noise?
A fraying belt can slap against the cabinet before it breaks, and when it snaps you may hear a pop followed by the motor running while the drum stays still. Some models have a switch that then shuts the motor off, so the dryer seems dead.
Why choose SteelPeak Appliance Repair
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SteelPeak Appliance Repair is a licensed and insured company serving Los Angeles, the San Fernando Valley and Santa Clarita.
Price before work starts
The technician explains what failed and gives you the repair price. Nothing is repaired until you approve it.
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Repair warranty
Repairs come with a SteelPeak repair warranty. Ask for the terms on your invoice.
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21 Google reviews · Same-day appointments may be available · Licensed & insured · Upfront pricing — no hidden fees