Washer Won't Start

Checks you can do safely before you call

1. Check the outlet. Wet floor near the outlet? Shut off the laundry breaker first and leave the plug alone. Otherwise unplug the washer, plug a lamp into the same outlet to see whether it has power, and press Reset if the outlet has a reset button. In a garage, the reset button may be on another GFCI outlet that protects this one, so check nearby outlets too.
2. Check for a tripped breaker. With dry hands and a dry floor, open the door of the breaker panel, without removing the panel cover, and look for a breaker in the middle or off position. Switch it fully off and back on once; if it trips again, leave it off and call.
3. Turn off the control lock and any delay start. With dry hands and the washer plugged in, look for a lock icon, CL on an LG washer, or a delay timer counting down on the display. The owner's manual names the button to hold, for about three seconds on many models, to release the lock.
4. Close the door or lid firmly. With the washer unplugged, look for a cracked latch hook or striker and for clothing caught in the door. Never tape or bypass the lock.
5. Open the water valves. Make sure both valves behind the washer are fully open and the hoses aren't kinked. If it starts and then stops with a fill code, shut the valves and unplug the washer before you check the inlet screens where the hoses attach. Keep a towel and bucket handy, since the hoses hold water, and clean the screens in place rather than prying them out.
6. Reset the controls. Unplug the washer for about a minute, or switch its breaker off if the floor is wet, then restore power and try a quick cycle.

When to call a technician

• The outlet powers a lamp but the washer stays dark.
• The breaker or the GFCI outlet trips again when the washer is plugged in or started.
• The door locks and unlocks over and over, or a lock code returns after a reset.
• The buttons still don't respond with the control lock off.
• You smell burning or see scorch marks on the plug or the outlet. Switch off the breaker and leave the washer unplugged.

What happens at the diagnostic visit

The technician confirms power at the outlet and at the washer's main board, checks the door or lid lock and its switch and, if the washer stops at the fill, the water inlet valve, then reads any stored codes from the control board and the user interface. You'll know whether it's the lock, the valve, a wiring fault or a board before you decide.

The diagnostic visit is $89 for a standard residential appliance and $129 for a built-in unit or commercial equipment; a premium brand on its own doesn't make an appliance built-in. No repair starts without your go-ahead on the price. Read about washer repair in Los Angeles homes and around the Santa Clarita Valley.

Brand and model notes

• LG: CL on the display is the child lock, not a fault; dE points to the door lock, and IE means water isn't coming in. Go to LG washer repair for more LG codes, or see LG.
• Samsung: dC (dE on older models) points to the door lock, and 4C (4E) is a water supply fault. Codes vary by model, so check your manual. A Samsung child lock can also make the buttons seem dead. Samsung washer repair and Samsung have more.
• Whirlpool and Maytag: on washers that show F and E codes, F5 E2 means the door or lid didn't lock and F8 E1 is a long fill. Holding Control Lock, or the button marked for it, for about three seconds turns the lock off. Brand pages: Whirlpool, Maytag.
• Kenmore: Kenmore washers were built by other manufacturers, and the model number's three-digit prefix shows whose design yours uses, for example 110 for Whirlpool, 796 for LG and 417 for Frigidaire or Electrolux. That helps match the codes and parts to your washer. See Kenmore.