Burners Won't Ignite
Learn why a gas stove burner clicks without lighting, or won't click at all, and what to check first.
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When the burners on a gas range or stove won't ignite, you turn the knob to Lite and hear clicking with no flame, or hear nothing at all. A burner can also catch only after a long run of clicks, or light and then go out.
Each burner needs a clean, dry head with its cap sitting flat, an igniter that sparks in the right spot, and a working spark module and knob switch. Several of those you can check yourself with the knobs off and the burners cool. Burners on a separate gas cooktop work the same way, and our cooktop guide covers them.
Burners Won't Ignite: common causes
- Wet burner or igniter — Water from a boil-over or from cleaning stops the spark from lighting the gas until everything dries, so the burner clicks without catching.
- Burner cap out of place — A cap that sits crooked, upside down or on the wrong burner after cleaning blocks the gas path to the igniter, so the spark has nothing to light.
- Clogged burner ports — Grease, food or cleaner residue in the ports, or in the small port beside the igniter, stops the gas from flowing where the spark can catch it.
- Damaged or greasy igniter — A cracked ceramic igniter, or one coated in grease, gives a weak spark or sparks to the wrong spot.
- Faulty spark module or knob switch — The module makes the spark and a switch on each knob tells it when, so no clicking at all, or clicking that won't stop, points here.
- No power to the range — The spark runs on the range's 120-volt cord even though the burners burn gas, so an unplugged cord or a tripped breaker stops every igniter.
Signs to look for
- One burner clicks but won't light — Gas isn't meeting the spark on that burner, so look at its cap, its ports and whether it's dry.
- No burner clicks at all — Power isn't getting to the range, or the spark module is dead.
- Clicking continues after the flame lights — A wet or failing knob switch, or on ranges that relight on their own, a flame that isn't being sensed.
- The flame lights, then goes out — The cap or ports are partly blocked, or the burner isn't getting a steady flow of gas.
- A yellow, uneven or lifting flame — The cap is off-center, the ports are partly clogged or spill residue is burning off, and if it lasts after cleaning, the gas pressure or the burner orifice needs a technician.
Checks you can do safely before you call
If you smell gas, stop: don't light or start the appliance or work any switch or plug, leave the home and call your gas utility or 911 from outside.
- Turn every knob off and let the grates and burners cool. Do each check with the knobs off. Don't remove the cooktop surface, and never open the valves, the gas line or anything under the burners.
- Switch off the power before touching an igniter. Turn off the range's breaker, or unplug it only if you can reach the plug through the storage drawer opening. Don't pull a gas range away from the wall: that strains its gas connector and can unhook the anti-tip bracket. Then wipe the ceramic igniter gently with a dry cloth.
- Reseat the cap and head. With the knobs still off and the burners cool, lift off the grate, take off the cap and the burner head if it lifts free, and set them back so the cap sits flat and centered. Caps differ in size, so each one belongs on its own burner.
- Clear the ports and let them dry. With the power still off, open blocked ports in the burner head with a sewing needle or the end of an unbent paper clip, without widening them; skip toothpicks, which can snap off inside. Never put anything into the small brass gas opening in the center of the burner base. After a spill or washing, give the parts a few hours to dry fully.
- Try one burner at a time. Restore power, turn one knob to Lite and watch for a blue spark at its igniter. If it doesn't light within a few seconds, turn the knob off and wait a minute before trying again. Every igniter clicking at once is normal on many ranges.
When to call a technician
- A burner still clicks without lighting after it's clean, dry and its cap is seated.
- No igniter clicks while the clock and lights show the range has power.
- Clicking won't stop with every knob off; switch off the range's breaker and leave it off until it's checked.
- The spark jumps to the grate or the burner base instead of the burner.
- The flame stays yellow, lifts off the burner or won't hold on low.
If it's the oven burner that won't light, start with oven not heating. For a separate gas cooktop, see cooktop burners won't ignite, and for sparking that won't stop, cooktop sparking.
What happens at the diagnostic visit
The technician lights each burner and watches the spark and the flame, then checks the igniters and their wiring, each knob switch, the spark module, and the burner heads and caps for warping or corrosion. The flame is checked for an even blue pattern, and the burner valves for steady flow.
The diagnostic visit is $89 for a standard residential appliance and $129 for a built-in unit or commercial equipment; a premium brand on its own doesn't make an appliance built-in. Work starts only after you approve the repair price. More on the ranges and stoves we fix is on our oven and range repair page.
Brand and model notes
- Thermador: star burners on Thermador ranges and rangetops relight on their own when the flame goes out, so a burner that keeps clicking while lit can mean moisture or a cap out of place is stopping the flame from being sensed. On an ExtraLow burner, the flame cycling off and relighting at the lowest setting is normal. See Thermador range and cooktop repair.
- Wolf: the dual-stacked sealed burners on current Wolf ranges and rangetops put a small simmer flame beneath the main one, so a burner can catch on high yet lose its lowest flame when the cap sits off-center. See Wolf.
- Viking: the VariSimmer setting holds a very low flame, and a flame that dies there points to the burner, its valve or the low-flame adjustment. See Viking.
- GE, Whirlpool and Samsung: freestanding gas ranges from these brands use sealed burners with lift-off caps in several sizes, so rule out a cap swapped between burners first. See GE, Whirlpool and Samsung.
Book a diagnostic visit
$89 standard residential · $129 built-in or commercial. We identify the issue, explain your options and give you an upfront quote before any repair work begins.
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Burners Won't Ignite: questions and answers
Why does my gas burner click but not light?
Clicking means the igniter is sparking but the gas isn't meeting the spark. A wet burner, a cap that isn't sitting flat or clogged ports cause that. Let the burner dry, reseat the cap, clear the ports and try again. If it still clicks without a flame, the igniter or knob switch needs testing.
Why do all the burners click when I turn one knob?
On many gas ranges every igniter is wired to one spark module, so turning any knob to Lite makes them all spark together. That's normal. Clicking that carries on after you turn the knob back off is not, and points to moisture in a knob switch or a failing switch or module.
Why won't any of my gas stove burners click?
When no igniter sparks, the spark module isn't getting power or has stopped working. Check that the range's breaker is on; a dark clock or oven light points to a power problem. If the range has power and no burner makes a clicking sound, the spark module or the wiring to it needs testing.
Why is my burner flame yellow or uneven?
A healthy flame burns blue and even around the whole burner. Yellow tips, gaps in the ring or flames lifting off the burner point to a cap that isn't centered, partly blocked ports or spill residue. Clean and dry the burner, reseat the cap and look again; if it stays yellow or keeps lifting, stop using that burner until the gas pressure and orifice are checked.
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