Commercial Cooler Not Cooling

• Dirty or blocked condenser coil — Grease, flour and dust coat the coil fins, or boxes stacked in front of the vents cut off the airflow, so the unit sheds heat poorly and the box warms even while the compressor runs.
• Condenser fan motor stopped — Without that fan pulling air across the coil, heat builds up around the compressor and cooling falls off or stops.
• Evaporator fan, iced coil or blocked air inside — The fan inside the box moves cold air off the coil, and a stalled motor, a coil packed with ice or cases piled against the fan cover leaves the product warm.
• Door gaskets and closers — A torn gasket, a sagging door or a self-closer that no longer pulls the door shut lets warm kitchen air pour in during service.
• Temperature control or sensor — A failed thermostat, probe or controller can stop calling for cooling, or read the box colder than it really is.
• Compressor or start components — A compressor that hums and clicks off on its overload, or never starts at all, points to the start relay, the overload protector or the compressor motor itself.

• Thermometer above 41°F while the compressor runs — The unit is removing heat too slowly, which points to a dirty condenser coil, a stalled fan, an iced evaporator coil or a leaking door.
• Frost or ice showing through the fan guard inside the box — Air can't pass through the coil, which points to a stalled evaporator fan, a door left ajar or a control that never lets the coil defrost.
• Water pooling on the cabinet floor — The condensate drain is blocked, or the coil iced over and then melted.
• Doors that don't swing shut on their own — A worn hinge cam or closer, or a cabinet that is no longer level, is leaving the door open to warm air.
• A warm box with the lights and inside fan on but no hum from the compressor — Power reaches the cooler but the compressor isn't starting, which points to the control, the start parts or the compressor.

See all appliance problems →