Commercial Washer or Dryer Down

• Door lock or interlock fault — The machine won't start until the lock confirms the door is shut, and a failed lock can also hold the door closed after the cycle ends.
• Drain valve or pump blocked — Lint, buttons and small items from pockets lodge in the drain path, leaving water in the drum and stopping the spin.
• Motor drive or control fault — A failed drive board, motor or control board shows up as an error code, a drum that won't turn or a machine that won't start.
• No heat in the dryer — On a gas dryer the igniter, flame sensor, gas valve or ignition control, and on an electric dryer the heating element or its contactor, can stop the heat while the drum keeps turning.
• Lint and airflow restriction — A packed lint screen or a blocked exhaust duct makes the dryer run hot until the high-limit or the airflow switch shuts the heat off. Lint near the heat is a fire risk, so don't keep restarting it.
• Drive belt or idler worn — A broken or slipping belt leaves the motor running while the drum or basket turns slowly or not at all.

• An error code on the display and no start — Write the code down with the model, because it narrows down which part of the machine reported the fault.
• The door stays locked after the cycle — Water left in the drum, or a failed lock or control, is keeping the door shut, so don't force it: the lock is what keeps it closed while the drum holds water or is still turning.
• Water still in the drum when the cycle stops — The drain valve or pump is blocked or has failed, or the drain the machine empties into is backed up.
• The dryer tumbles but the load stays damp and cool — The heat source has failed, or a high-limit or airflow switch has shut the heat off.
• Loud banging or walking during the spin — An out-of-balance load, worn springs or shock absorbers, or loose mounting bolts can cause it, so stop the cycle and leave the machine off until it is checked.

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