Commercial Oven Not Heating

• Ignition fault on a gas oven — A worn hot-surface or spark igniter, a pilot that won't stay lit, or a weak flame sensor or thermocouple stops the burner from lighting or lets it drop out.
• Burned-out heating element — On an electric oven, an element that has opened up stays cold, and losing one of several shows up as slow, uneven baking.
• Contactor or relay failure — The control calls for heat, but the switch that feeds power to the elements has a failed coil or burned contacts, so no current reaches the elements.
• Tripped high-limit — This safety thermostat cuts the heat when the oven overheats, and the reason it tripped has to be found before the oven goes back into service.
• Thermostat, probe or control board — A probe reading wrong or a failed control shuts the heat off early or never calls for it at all.
• Blower motor or door switch — On a convection oven, a failed blower motor or a door switch that doesn't register a closed door can keep the heat from coming on.

• Fan and lights run but the cavity stays cold — Power reaches the oven, so the fault sits on the heat side: ignition, the elements or their contactor, a tripped high-limit or the control.
• A gas oven that clicks or glows but never lights — The igniter, the gas valve or the ignition control isn't completing the lighting sequence, so switch the oven off rather than restarting it over and over.
• The burner lights and goes out after a few seconds — The flame sensor or thermocouple isn't proving the flame, so the valve closes again.
• Slow, uneven bakes from one side to the other — One element out of several has failed, or the blower isn't moving enough air.
• One section of a double-stack oven heats and the other doesn't — Each section has its own controls and heat source, so the fault sits in the cold one.
• The breaker trips when the heat comes on — A shorted element or a wiring fault, so leave the breaker off until the oven is checked.

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