Dishwasher Not Draining
Standing water after a dishwasher cycle traces to a clogged filter, a blocked drain path or the drain pump.
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A dishwasher that isn't draining leaves dirty water sitting in the bottom of the tub when the cycle ends, and a sour smell follows soon after. Some models stop partway and show a drain code, and others finish the cycle and leave the water behind.
Water leaves through the filter, the drain pump and the drain hose, then into the garbage disposal or the sink drain, sometimes by way of an air gap on the counter. A blockage anywhere along that path looks the same from the front, so work through the safe checks below before you book a visit.
Dishwasher Not Draining: common causes
- Clogged filter — Food scraps, labels and broken glass collect in the filter at the bottom of the tub until water drains too slowly to clear before the cycle ends.
- Blocked garbage disposal or sink drain — The dishwasher empties into the disposal or the sink tailpiece, so a clogged disposal, a blocked trap or a newly replaced disposal with its knockout plug still in place keeps the water in the tub.
- Kinked or clogged drain hose — A hose crushed when the dishwasher was pushed back into the cabinet, or one packed with grease, stops the water even while the pump runs.
- Jammed or failed drain pump — Glass or a fruit pit can lock the pump impeller so the motor hums without moving water, and a failed pump motor makes no sound at all.
- Clogged air gap — The small cap beside the faucet on some sinks fills with debris, and drain water then spills into the sink instead of going down the drain.
- Stuck check valve or control fault — A check valve stuck shut in the drain path, or a control that never signals the pump, leaves the water where it is.
Signs to look for
- Water stands above the filter after the cycle — The drain path is blocked, so start with the filter and the disposal.
- The sink gurgles or backs up while the dishwasher drains — The blockage sits in the disposal or the sink drain rather than the dishwasher.
- A hum from the base while the water level stays put — The drain pump is jammed by debris or has failed.
- Water spills from the cap beside the faucet — The air gap or the hose below it is clogged.
- A drain code, or a cycle that stops partway — The control gave up waiting for the tub to empty, and the filter, the hose or the pump is holding the water.
Checks you can do safely before you call
- Cut the power at the breaker. Switch off the dishwasher's breaker before you reach into the tub, or pull the plug if it has one under the sink.
- Let it cool, then bail out the standing water. After a cycle, wait until the water and the tub are cool, because some models have a heating element on the tub floor that stays hot. With the power still off, scoop the water out with a cup and soak up the rest with a towel. Wear gloves, because the filter area can hold broken glass.
- Clean the filter. Where the model has one, twist out the filter in the tub floor, rinse it with a soft brush, and check the opening below it for glass, seeds or labels. Refit it until it locks.
- Clear the shared drain. If the disposal shares the dishwasher's breaker, switch that breaker on for this step only, then off again, and keep your hands out of both. Run cold water and the disposal for half a minute to clear the shared line; for a disposal that hums without spinning, see garbage disposal humming. A newly fitted disposal may still have its knockout plug sealing the dishwasher inlet; ask whoever fitted it to check.
- Check the hose and the air gap. Under the sink, look for a kinked or flattened drain hose. On sinks with an air gap, pull off its cover and clear the debris inside. If you take the hose off the disposal or the sink tailpiece, shut the dishwasher's supply valve first, hold a bowl under the joint, and tighten the clamp fully when you refit it.
- Listen to the pump. With every hose back in place, restore the power, start a short cycle and cancel it as the manual describes, so the dishwasher pumps out. A hum with no water moving points to a jammed pump, and normal pump noise to the hose, the air gap or the disposal.
When to call a technician
- Water still stands in the tub with the filter, disposal, hose and air gap clear.
- The pump hums or buzzes, but the water level doesn't drop.
- The same drain code comes back after a clean filter and a power reset.
- Water shows up on the floor or in the sink cabinet while the dishwasher drains.
- The kitchen sink backs up on its own too. That is a drain-line clog, and a plumber is the right call for it.
What happens at the diagnostic visit
The technician confirms the standing water, reads any stored code and checks the filter housing, the sump, the drain pump and its impeller, the check valve, and the drain hose up to the disposal or sink. The pump is tested for power and flow, so you know whether the fault is a blockage, a failed pump or its control.
The diagnostic visit is $89 for a standard residential appliance and $129 for a built-in unit or commercial equipment; a premium brand on its own doesn't make an appliance built-in. You get a repair quote before the technician replaces anything. More on drain repairs is on our dishwasher repair page.
Brand and model notes
- Bosch: on models with a display, a clogged filter shows as E22, a blocked hose or sink connection as E24, and a jammed drain pump or a loose pump cover as E25. The pump cover sits below the filter, and the manual shows how to lift it with the power off. See Bosch.
- Miele: F11 is a drainage fault. Rinse the filter combination and check the hose; if F11 returns, the technician checks the drain pump and the non-return valve. See Miele dishwasher repair and Miele.
- Samsung and LG: on models with a display, Samsung shows 5C or 5E for a drain fault, and LG shows OE. See Samsung and LG.
- Whirlpool, KitchenAid and Maytag: many models have a twist-out filter you rinse by hand. Some, including Maytag Dual Power Filtration and older self-cleaning designs, also have a hard food chopper, so hard debris can reach the pump housing. See Whirlpool, KitchenAid and Maytag.
Book a diagnostic visit
$89 standard residential · $129 built-in or commercial. We identify the issue, explain your options and give you an upfront quote before any repair work begins.
21 Google reviews · Same-day appointments may be available · Licensed & insured · Upfront pricing — no hidden fees
Dishwasher Not Draining: questions and answers
Why is there standing water in the bottom of my dishwasher?
A little water in the sump below the filter is normal on many models, because it keeps the seals wet. Water above the filter after a finished cycle means the drain path is blocked or the drain pump isn't running, so clean the filter and run the disposal first.
Can a garbage disposal stop a dishwasher from draining?
Yes. A dishwasher that drains through the disposal can't empty while the disposal is clogged, and a newly replaced disposal may still have the knockout plug sealing its dishwasher inlet. Run the disposal with cold water, then start a short cycle and watch whether the water goes down.
Is it safe to keep using a dishwasher that isn't draining?
Stop using it until it drains. Each new load washes in dirty water that has nowhere to go, food settles back on the dishes, and a pump running against a jam can overheat. Switch it off at the breaker and work through the checks on this page.
Should I pour drain cleaner into a dishwasher that won't drain?
No. Chemical drain cleaners can damage the pump seals and plastic parts, and the next cycle can splash them onto your dishes. Clean the filter by hand and clear the disposal instead, and book a diagnostic visit when the water still won't go down.
Why choose SteelPeak Appliance Repair
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The technician explains what failed and gives you the repair price. Nothing is repaired until you approve it.
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21 Google reviews · Same-day appointments may be available · Licensed & insured · Upfront pricing — no hidden fees